Credentials

Look what arrived at Janey's house in the post this morning:

These are our credencials - they allow us to stay in the Albergues along the Camino. One each for me, Janey and Kerri. Preparations are under way. My feet are itching to get going.The excitement is building. We are going to have the walk of our lives (again for me and Janey, and a first for Kerri) - whay hey....
BY the time we get to Finistere they will be full of stamps (sellos - your Spanish lesson starts here) from the places we visit along the way...

A Queer kind of day

Today was the first day in a month that I haven't sat at the PC and ploughed through a couple of thousand words, and strange that has felt too.

The characters are still so alive in my head, and still twittering away. 'The sisters' whom you shall meet if you stick your head into the pages of my latest offering are asking that their story be told too. Whilst the cousins are still pumped up and full of energy ready for their next adventure.
The other day whilst chatting with John, a fellow NaNoWriMO, we spoke about how the book and characters take on a life of their own, and that if you try to pull them in the wrong direction your story stalls. Well they are the ones doing the pulling now, for sure, but as for me I need a little bit of a break from daily keyboard addiction. 

This morning I shopped without that nagging thought at the back of my head 'gotta get back, 1700 words  to write'! The morning was more or less my own. OF course there were the usual daily chores, especially since Sussi arrives on Sunday, so I had to do  bit of cleaning up here and there. Still we've shared Albergues that were so much more grubby, and less comfortable than our luxurious guest room quite!

Have I missed the writing? Well you could surmise from my ramblings here that I have, and to be truthful I really have. I've loved the race of the chase to send the cousins on the next step of their adventure. I've loved the challenge of coming up with the all important verses that flow through the story, and I've missed the rush that I get when I close the document seeing I've written far more words that I could have dreamed of in the short time allowed for my passion.

So what's next, aside form the editing and proofing? Happily there's another Camino book in my head and in my heart that needs writing. Pulling together my two passions writing and the Camino is such a pleasure that I am looking forward to telling the story of My Camino Primitivo.

Rain stops play

Fortunately we've had a load of rain, and the most incredible storms, over the last few days, interspersed with sunshine- all a bit mad actually.

Unfortunately when we have such storms the satellite signal on the TV cuts out, and often the electricity cuts out too. This happened when I was halfway through a major 'Magic' project yesterday. Thanks to Nick's suggestion I decided to put together a short video to promote 'The Magic of the Camino' book.  I had almost finished when the Leckie cut out, fortunately the programme had self-saved just before that, so I lost very little. This is also one of the reasons for the lack of blogs over the last day or two.

The video is now available on YouTube:

Let me know what you think....

And the winners are...

The morning started off with a lesson from the law of attraction....

On Monday we went into a key-makers to get a copy of the car key made, just in case I should ever lose it -strange as it's never worried me before. After having made the key the keysmith found out he didn't have the right 'chi' to activate the key, so no spare was purchased.

Today I was about to rush out and went to pick up my car key off the hook - it wasn't there - "but it's always there," I cried. Turning the house upside down ensued, trying to retrace my steps, wailing and gnashing of teeth accompanying all actions.  After at least half an hour of hell I found the key in Cuddy's toybox -how it got there is a mystery -but it was definitely a message from the universe - that what you consider will be delivered.

At midday the draw for 'The Magic of the Camino' prize book draw took place -All the names were put in a hat (all 98 of them) and I drew two for the prizes:

And the winners are: Heidi Kirchhof and Nick Brennan. Both have been sent messages. Nick, already having the book has chosen to get some 'Camino goodies'. As yet I've not heard back from Heidi.

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And today's photo challenge: Together

I had so many ideas for this one, but finally settled on this photo taken by Nick a couple of years back. It's one of my favourites of the two of us:

Home again

Well I guess the title says it all -I'm back with my family in CasaTulStig.

At Santiago airport I checked in, sticks and all (they have a special no charge for sticks agreement for pilgrims travelling from Santiago).

After a slight delay I arrived back at BCN airport, picked up my rucksack, but no sticks. OMG my friends had got lost en-route. after a quick and efficient chat with the 'lost luggage' desk I was advised that as soon as they were located they would be delivered straight to our door, and happily they arrived this morning.

Arriving home is always a little traumatic after so long on the road, and this time as we have been having work done in the house it was doubly so, as the house was in a bit of a mess. Now I don't know about you, but I can't sit amongst a mess, so as soon as I arrived home I set to on it all so as I'd feel more comfortable.  Isn't it incredible how dust gets just about everywhere, especially when builders take no care to prevent it. Anyway the house is starting to get a little more comfortable, and tomorrow I shall be talking to the builders first thing...

So to the two questions that most of you ignored, but a couple of you did your best to answer.

First of all my sticks- Yes Janey was right - they were named 'Jane and Nick' -so I have a little something here for you when you come over next month. As soon as I received Janey's whatsApp message with the answer I wondered how she'd got into my head again!

And the weight I lost - 7.5 kilos (one stone and two pounds and a bit) - Janey thought I'd lose one and half stone (9.25 kilos) and Nick thought I'd lose 12 kilos - Janey you've done it again.

Ready for home

Today I've been playing 'tourist' and have wandered the gift shops and museums, and even been in the Cathedral.
For lunch I found a tasty vegetable pie -almost as good as 'Greggs Pies' but could have done with a bit more pepper. I could only buy a huge chunk so have saved a piece for tomorrow.
This afternoon I had myself an extended siesta and spent some time going back over my last two weeks on the road. What an amazing experience I hhave enjoyed again. Highs and lows both physically and mentally.
This evening I have found myself drawn back to Charlies bar and another G&T before dinner.
Whilst I have enjoyed my time out on the road I am now more than ready to return to Casa TulStig annd more so to my family tomorrow.
This afternoon Fina (the landlady of the room I am staying in) kindly organised a taxi pick up outside the flat door for tomorrow morning. This afternoon I also wrapped up my sticks hoping the airline wil let me on with them. So I am just about ready to go. .....

Job done.

After a great nigt's sleep I set out  late this morning into the rain. At this point in the journey there is no way to get lost with signs everywhere.
Arriving in Monte de Gozo,where I had planned to stop the night? I decided to carry on to journey's end: Santiago. I arrived in front of the cathedral in pouring rain with a beaming smile on my face.
I'm now settled into a private room and am taking my reward of a G&T  in Charlie's bar (AKA the cafe casino).
Tomorrow I shall play the tourist before flying home on Saturday.
Happy??? You bet I am.

I have now arrived in Pedrouzo and am staying in one of my favourite albergues from 2010: el puerto de Santiago. The hospitalero is kindness itself. The place is spotless and light with background music playing that is truly relaxing. Sitting on my bunk this afternoon was like time travel - all that was missing was Janey. Messaging her through WhatsApp anc both got a little emotional. The Camino can do that to you.
The way today has been clogged with peregrinos an tourigrinos which has made it less fun - I'm not sure that walking with a hello kitty bag on your back full of your cosmetics really makes for a real pilgrimage, but who am I to criticise?!
This afternoon I have had an extended and reviving siesta followed by a hot cafe con leche and tasty pastry. Tonight I shall avail myself of the veggie meal in the cafe across the road, but for now I am super-chilled.
As I get closer to Santiago I am beginning to think that I dont want it to end. In parts its been really hard, close to giving up hard, but I'm still going and feeling good.
Tomorrow I am planning to stay in Monte de Gozo - a 500 bed albergue complex. Apparently the dorms are small and its not as bad as it sounds. Anyway I shall offer a full report tomorrow.

Weighty question.

I'm a little disappointed with the lack of responses to my "what did I call my sticks?" question. Only three entries as far as I can tell. Hedwig says 'leftie and rightie'. Janey suggested 'Nick and Jane', and Ashley has offered 'Bill and Ben'. 
So I thought I'd pose you another...
Before starting the Camino I weighed myself and was a little shocked to find I weighed more than I ever had. So the question is... by the time I get home on Saturday how much weight will I have lost?
Here's a little clue. I can now tighten my belt two more noyches than before.

Dreams, memories and stories.

After a terrible night's sleep,due to the noisiness of a group of teenagers, I set out earlier than intended and was more than pleased to be back in the peace of the countriside.  I 've also been having the weirdest and sometimes disturbing dreams.
Just outside Melide is the 50 km marker, where Jane and I posed for photos two years ago (check pivasa albums). I stopped here again and got a young lady to take another for me.
A little bit further on I crossed a stream on big boulders. More memories of 2010. Then a little further on was the fruit stand where we stopped for raspberries, but sadly today it was bereft of anything.
Much of the walk today was along farm tracks,and some through eucalyptus groves where the smell was intoxicating.
As I was only going as far as Arzua today (about 15kms) it didn't take long to arrive. This was good news as my right foot has been giving me a bit of PN pain today and is still quite sore.
Part of the way I walked with a lovely woman from Colorado, USA,who had a touching story about what brought her to the Camino. I was almost in tears.
I am now in the Albergue de Fonte, which is cosy. Just 6 beds in tbe room, wifi, and all mod cons. On arrival I did a load of washing and dried it in the drier as the skies have been threatening rain all day.
This evening I shall be making myself a light dinner, after a yrip to the shops, and hopefully getting a much better night's sleep.

Melide & memories

After dinner last night I had a chat with the late arrival -an Aussie guy. Phew,not a happy chappy - and you guys downunder call US whinging Poms?!?
A later start again this morning, as all future days will be. The morning started with a mixed climb -both gentle and steep- up to a craggy outcrop. Up here I found the most beautiful purple orchid - Stunning.
A little further on I stopped at a roadside cafe for a coffee, where Lennie and Jan caught up. Len insisted on getting a photo of me, never having seen me with a coffee  before.  A minute or two later Sabine caught up too - it is clear we are all takking it a bit easier today. Sabine and I plan to stay in Melide, whilst L & J are going on to Ribadiso.
Within very litlle time at all we had arrived in Melide. After finding the albergue we found a cafe for one last lunch together on the road. Again the bocadillos were huge and we each ate half, stashing the other half for later.
After lunch we hugged and L & J went on their way and I queued to gst in the albergue, which BTW is really nice.
Showered and freshened I set out to explore the town and find places from my memories of 2010 - Chaplin cafe being fhe main one. Once I had found it and reconnected some memories I bought some cherries and sat in the sun to contemplate.
What a wonferful life I have.....

Fresh and early.

An early start this morning. At 5 am I looked out the window to see it was raining cats and dogs. Fortunately ten minutes later when we left it had stopped.
In no time we were out of Lugo,whose streets were still full of revellers, and into the countryside.
Maintaining a good speed I whizzed along passing through villages and tiny hamlets. All the time the rain threatened and drizzled on and off.
By 9.50I had arrived at the next albergue,which didn't open doors till13.00. So had to wait in the cold, but the Slovak girls built a fire in the field to warm us all.
The hospitalero arrived on time and let us in. What a strange place this is. So many things to maked me laug since arriving but if you want to know what you'll haved to read the book of the walk due out later this year...... yes the teasers have started!!
Jan and I are now sitting in front of the fire enjoying a glass of tinto. Life is still good despite the cold.

Cadavar dancing

Walk today as taxing as all the previous days. This area is seriously mountainous!
Arrived in Cadavo Baleira early afternoon. Strange place name- does it really mean cadaver dance?! Comments please from Spanish speakers.....
Hospitalera strict officiious type till I plied my charm now shes all smiles and coquetish!!
Just been local bar to ask about Pilgrim menu. At last something different -a veggie rice dish. I shall report back later on that one. Or just make you wait for the book for my verdict.

Picture is of albergue -   New and clean. Nice space but lacking in atmosphere.

The hills are alive...

This morning I started  by climbing a mountain. A lttle later on I forded a stream. And yes you've guessed it.... there was sunshine and rain causing a rainbow which I followed. Today really has been like  a dream. Wonderful views all the way again, and now I've left Asturias for Galicia with something like 150+ kms to go.
This evening I made veggie spaghetti bolognese for the three of us. Things have workd out really well with Lennie and Jan. We walk at our own rhythm then meet up at our destination.
This evening's albergue is the fullest so far with about 20 of us in all. I am currently in Padron just outside Fonsegrada. Tomorrow's walk shouldn't be too  bad - not so much  climbing but it's still 25 kms. Today has  been baking hot again so we are all hoping  for a cooler day tomorrofw which according to the weather forecast should be on the cards.

Fantastic Day

Left the albergue around 6.30 climbing immediately. Up past wind turbines to the peak of the mountain. Looking out over the other side the clouds were way below.
Gradually I descended into the clouds  and finally through them to the dam of Grandas. The route went across the dam and up the road on the other side.
A short way up there was a smart hotel overlooking the lake yet in the midst of a deserted village. I stopped here for a cafe con leche and croisant and to pet the big daft lab who made it clear he  wanted  to share.
Back on my  way I bumped into Guillermo and Miquel again, who I thought would have been way ahead by now.
Next town Grandas de Salime where I stoppex for a drink and to call ahead to the next albergue to book. Lennie and Jan caught up but Jan said he wasn't having a good day and was finding it hard going. We sat a while and then I was on my way again.
Just outside Grandas there was a little cafe bar shop where I stopped off to buy some acietunas (running joke with Jan) zzand some cherries.
The rest of the way was through fields and I made the most of being alone by singing at the top of my voice as I walked.
A few minutes later I was in Castro at the albergue. It has everything inc sheets on the beds, towels, a bar, and most important a dog - Boira - a catalan word. The hospitalera is from BCN. Dinner in a few minutes. All veggie again.
Sitting here I am feeling at peace. Amazing location and so peaceful.

Best day yet

After a fairly good night's  sleep I was on the road for  about 6.30.  I ave to admit I wasn't really looking forward to the day's walk as a hard climb was promised.
Yes the climb was hard but stunning. I  really felt the camino had truly begun for me. From beautiful views to walking amongst cows to amazing forests the day has been a series of different senations.
I'm now settled into a small albergue in La Mesa once again with Lennie and Jan. Tonight Lennie is making scrambled eggs and I am making pasta. What a feast we are promised.
For the time being i am relaxing flat out on the grass in the churchyard. Ah bliss.....

Cometition time

Today I have been walking with two new and very good friends. My walking poles. And I am getting on with them so well that I have named them. So what have I called them? They have a name each and if you think you might know what I've called them add a comment below or send me an e-mail. The answer will be given in my first blog when I get home. And yes there's a prize if you get it  right.

Campiello to Penaseita.

After being ill dufing the night I was a little later setting out this morning and still not feeling brill. However after a while walking I started to feel better. The views were incredible. The mountaintops poking out through the fog was reminiscent of walking up the Pyrenees.
Before long I came to the point where the camino split into two. Decision had to be made. According to my guidebook the hospitales route was not recommended for anyone travelling alone unless you were an experienced mountainer. So I chose the other route.
Shortly after making my mind up I met a  farmer  with a soppy golden retriever and he said I would have been fine on the other route as it was going to stay clear all day. Of course I then doubted my decision for a while.
It wasn't much longer before I was in Pola de Allende,where I decided to stop for a drink and cheese sarnie.
Suitably refreshed I started to tackle the start of the big climb which we face tomorrow too.
I am now in the albergue at Penaseita. Shorly after arriving Lennie and Jan arrived. As yet the girls haven't made it and we suspect they stopped in Pola.
I was pleased to see Lennie and Jan as they are great company and in thier mid-seventies they are amazing. Or as Jan would say marvelous. This afternoon they made tea for the three of us -so civilised, and I so rarely drink it at home.
This aftetnoon we relaxed in the bar next door where we are returning for dinner this evening. But only bocadillos because it's Sunday. Nice that some people have a relaxing day!!

The Camino ups and downs

I'm not sure where I left you yesterday so excuse me if I repeat myself.

Dinner in the albergue was excellent. A garbanzos stew followed by tortilla and salad. Washed down with red wine. And yes I slept very well aftdr that, although I was awake early again. Breakfast was in the albergue and then a late start. I left around 7.30
and was well on my way in no time. Shortly I was joined by Ari,a mexican guy from London and we walked together as far as Tineo. Along the way we were joined bya catalan guy too.
From Tineo the 3 of us walked quite a way together until I dropped back bit by bit.
I am now in Campiello in a nice clean albegue,although a little too sterile for my liking.  This afternoon I sat outside the village cafe with my new dutch friends and enjoyed a bottle of cider. We've just had dinner together, along with the 2 Canadian girls.... another 5 on the way!!! They've stayed in the bar to watch the football whilst I've come back across the road to the albergue to feed the dog scraps I nicked from the table and to cuddle him up a bit. He's a lovely old mutt.

So why ups and downs as the heading? Because all along the way today I've either been climbing up or walking down mountains,and the descents have really hurt my knees. There are mord to come so at dinner tonight my new chums convinced me to buy a couple of sticks. At just 9€ the pair I think I've got myself a bargain. I hope they help and have no idea what I'll do with them when I get to Santiago.

Tears before bedtime

Leaving in the dark this morning may not have been such a good idea. The first thing I did was take a wronng turn which cost mme about an houts walking tinne and added about 4-5 kms to todays total.
Such a bad trip really shook my confidence and for the resst of the day I followed   that up with similar direction panics. In Cornellana I asked a hotel receptionist which way the camino went. He told me straight ahead. Affter a few minnutes i had a sense something was not right so asked a woman who sent me backand set me offf in the right direction.  So mr hotelier hold tight for your  karma.
To start the day i wasn't feeling 100% so walking at all was a bit of a trial. This I communicated to my whatsapp followers who sent me waves of energy. Janey sent me succh aa wonderfully uplifting message it brougt me to tears and for  the  next km or so I wept freely. What a wimp!! Lucky I was walking on my own at that point. Janey you really know how to get to me! Not only that I really did benefit fromm your helping hand.
Arriving in the albergue I felt love and despite being so tired that eve crossing my legs is an effort Iam feeling this places recuperative energy. And boy do I need some of that. I've already had a 2 hour siesta and am looking forward to a veggie dinner cooked by the host. With a bit of luck I'll even get a good night's sleep.
Although the day was a hard one as always I was rewardef with some sensational views, and in the last part through a forest some envigorating energy. Now I know some of this came from my amazing friends but I am sure that even the forest was helpinng me along. At one point I had a rral sense that soeone was lifting my rucksack fromm my aching shouders and with gentle hands on my back giving me a helpful push.
So  that was todays 30+ km adventure. Tomorrow I have promised mysel an easier day.

Ps... please forgive my wide range of typos in these posts. Partly down to tiredness and partly down to typing on ghis small phone screen.